Noteworthy Firsts

Getting the bike onto a train from Trang to Chiang Mai proved more difficult than employees had previously guaranteed. An important Thai phrase I learned immediately was “mai dai,” roughly translating to “no can do.”

Paul demonstrated a stoic calmness while navigating through all the ridiculous logistics and cyclical conversations that come with finagling a 650 CC Kawasaki Versys onto a train. (Here it should be stated that not a single train station in Thailand appears to have any sort of ramp or device that would really aid this process significantly. A simple two by four would have done the job). Meanwhile, I attracted attention from locals that ended up in some man proudly taking off his shirt to show me all nine of his tattoos.

Traditional style-- he insisted I photograph this one

Long story short, our delay led us to enjoy a lovely southern city called Thung Song that boasts an incredibly entertaining evening market, complete with a live band and carnival. I learned that worms and crickets are served as a delicacy alongside dates and cashews, which is foreshadowing events to come.

Savory Beetles and Herbs

A 14 year-old boy kindly escorted us all around town to search for a decent hotel on his motorbike sidecar, and we carefully weighed all the options before finally settling on a room for 10 USD. Our young driver refused to accept payment from us, so we found his family’s food stand in the market for dinner. He shyly stood by as I sweated through another meal that is generally considered mild.

Our next chore was exploring town on foot with a bottle of whiskey.

The evening stroll led us to the local “Best Pub:” a trendy spot that featured a teenage rock cover band and even let us bring in our own bottle.  Apparently, the waitstaff are accustomed to providing a bucket of ice and constantly passing by to refill your drink for you. This is the first time I’ve used the phrases “corking fee” and “Johnny Walker” in the same sentence.

The band’s ability to hype up the crowd with Korean Pop and Thai hits was coupled with unique interpretations of groups like the Cranberries—I was certainly not alone in belting those lyrics.  And I’ll pay the next band money NOT to cover Gangnam Style, thank you.

They even had matching tattoos around their biceps

This evening provided my first experience using a squatting toilet under the influence. Without going into too many graphic details, suffice it to say this maneuver requires core balance and quadriceps strength I thought I had abandoned in the high school weight room. Luckily, I already had some practice using the Thai bidet and was not wearing heels at the time; otherwise, disaster surely would have ensued. I'd love to know how the combination of heels, frog pose and porcelain doesn't end in more accidents for some of these more sharply dressed ladies....

The end of the night found Paul and myself standing confused in the glow of one of thousands of 7-11 stores you’ll come across here.  After walking a few kilometers in the wrong direction, we finally swallowed our pride and asked some young men with motorbikes if they knew our hotel. After some unintelligible chatter, one of them offered to give us a ride. Paul boldly hopped in the middle, right behind our generous driver, while I clung to the back of that tiny scooter for dear life, constantly reminding myself that while these things are only built for two, I’ve seen far more impressive feats of human stacking on these machines, often with babies and dogs.

We buzzed around until streets began to look familiar, and--once again--this kind individual refused any compensation for services rendered. That is, until we offered him a swig of whiskey and sent him scooting along his merry way. He was very grateful for this gesture and wished us a good evening. I just can't believe I had managed to hold onto that bottle while balancing myself on 4 inches of seat. 

The next day I witnessed my first Thai thunderstorm, so Paul and I sought shelter at a family massage parlor that offered a little something extra. (It's far more innocent than what you're probably thinking.)

They had a lovely little boy, about a year and a half old, who was a Thai masseuse in training. He greeted us Donald Duck style--shirt sans diaper--and assisted his parents in the therapeutic art. 

Perhaps not the most traditional or therapeutic, my experience was nonetheless enjoyable. This youthful no-pants method was my introduction to Thai massage, complete with laughter followed by tears followed by giggles, and a few toy trains thrown in for good measure. 'Twas an emotional roller coaster. 

I mean just look at how relaxed Paul is

I am enamored not only by the friendly and helpful nature of Thai people, but also by the beautiful habit of smiling at strangers and exchanging pleasantries. This seems to be lost on so many other cultures. The peaceful acknowledgement of another person is so simple and can lift one’s spirits in an instant. I noticed immediately that people here exude beauty because they always smile with such ease.

Even if someone doesn’t know the directions you seek, they will often go out of their way to offer some assistance and don’t think twice about it. If they can see that you don’t understand what they tell you, it is not uncommon for them to walk with you to your destination or simply give you a ride, without you even asking. The transit employees did eventually board both us and the motorcycle (albeit on different trains), and some went above and beyond to ensure our travel needs were met. 

Much of the hospitality I’ve seen here mirrors that of small southern towns in the states, and in some ways even exceeds them. I am constantly impressed by the warmth of this place, which lessens the heat of its tropical climate.